Comfort Food for Islanders

January 31st, 2007 by lanora scott · No Comments

photos by s.n. jacobson

Hula Hut Island Food and Bakery
2032 Columbus Parkway Benicia 707 748-7889

The Hula Hut operates as both a mini-vacation for those of us who grew up on the mainland, and a source of comfort food for islanders who have moved here. Both Hawaiian and Philippine islands are represented here.

The menu is divided into traditional Hawaiian food and dishes from the Philippines. Unfortunately the night I visited some items were not available, because “the ship hasn’t come in.” It’s strange to be on the other side of the shipping line; so much is taken to the islands, mainlanders forget about the return trip. However, this is a sign of how authentic the food at Hula Hut is.

Unable to taste the Hawaiian dishes, Saimin, (a noodle soup with chicken, charsiu, fishcake and tempura,) or the Lau Lau, (pork and salmon wrapped in taro leaves,) I opted for the special of the night, seared Ahi. The dish came with a salad and I chose to have vinaigrette dressing. The salad consisted of chopped lettuces, with grated cabbage and carrots stuffed into a wooden bowl. Large pieces of mushroom were placed on top. The dressing came on the side. The salad presented a few challenges. The dressing was so cold the oil and vinegar would not mix. Pieces of the salad were too big to get out of the bowl gracefully. The large fork that came with the salad was almost too cold to touch, and the salad itself suffered a little freezer burn.

The seared Ahi was also cold, as if it had sat on a cold plate after being seared. However there was lots of it, two scoops of rice, a small scoop of the creamiest pasta salad, and, yes, more salad, this time covered in ranch dressing!

It appears that I had ordered the wrong item. My dining partner’s Hawaiian Beef Curry was a much more successful meal. The curry arrived steaming hot. The spices were mild, and the texture consistency rich.

Dessert comes with the entrees at Hula Hut. We were given thin slices of chocolate layer cake drizzled with a raspberry sauce. The cake had a creamy texture and intense flavor that didn’t need the extra sauce, except perhaps for presentation. The bakery part of this business specializes in cakes. One of their more famous variations is a mango cake.

Despite my disappointment with my meal, I would definitely recommend Hula Hut. The d?cor is festive, the service was both friendly and unobtrusive, the portions large and the prices fair. However I would order something different.

The Filipino section of the menu offers such exotic dishes as Pancit Balabok, (seafood over rice noodles,) and Inihaw na Baboy, (charproiled pork cutlet with special dipping sauce.) On weekends special dishes such as, dinuguan, (blood stew,) and kare kare, (oxtail stew,) are also available.

The Hula Hut is located in a crowded strip mall near the freeway ? just where we all need a quick holiday. This is a place where locals relax and special birthdays are celebrated. Most importantly, the Aloha spirit is strong.

Pictures (click to enlarge):