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Archived Articles from L&BH Weekly through April 26, 2008

A Place of Magic

September 13th, 2006 by lanora scott · No Comments

[tag]Townhouse[/tag]
5862 Doyle St., Emeryville
510-652-6151

The Townhouse is one of those magical places where things happen. People run into long lost acquaintances. Others meet. One of my confirmed bachelor friends watched a woman walk across the restaurant and knew he had to meet her. They were married about a year later.

This magic seems part of the building. During Prohibition, the Townhouse supposedly functioned as a bar. It featured a room with no windows, a large fireplace and a collection of Western curios. In 1936 it officially became a neighborhood bar. The Western theme grew and, in the late ?70?s, live country and Western music was added. In the ?80?s free country dance lessons were offered. Everyone who lived in the East Bay at this time has a story or two of some adventure that took place at the Townhouse.

Now the Townhouse is a great place to eat. There is still a [tag]full bar[/tag], but the area once dedicated to the stage and dance floor is full of cloth-covered tables. The gravel parking lot has been paved, and the outside patio remodeled with more tables.

I?ve rarely eaten at the Townhouse when someone hasn?t ordered the [tag]garlic fries[/tag]. These are small fries and they come hot and crispy smothered in garlic. The cornmeal fried calamari with spicy cocktail sauce is also a great appetizer. Once I tried the mini burger plate. This is great party food.

The menu features a variety of salads that can be ordered as either appetizers or entrees. One of my favorites is the [tag]Grilled Lamb Sirloin Salad[/tag]. It is a large green salad with the lamb, grilled onions and peppers, aged white cheddar cheese, and a red wine sauce. The Nicoise Salad with grilled Ahi tuna, asparagus, new potatoes, and a tomato-olive-tarragon vinaigrette is another good choice for a light dinner or lunch.

Entrees include a Summer Squash and Corn Ravioli with tomato basil sauce, goat cheese, and toasted pine nuts that is superb. There is plenty for meat-eaters to choose such as Roasted Baby Back Pork Ribs with jerk mango BBQ sauce, French fries, and cole slaw, or a Grilled Flat Iron Steak with potato puree and lemon roasted vegetables, or a Hamburger served with French fries.

Even though there is plenty to choose from the regular menu, I always listen to the daily specials. This usually includes a freshly made soup as well as a seafood dish. My partner recently tried the special Cajun Chicken Fettuccine. While it wasn?t as spicy as the waitress described, the dish was very tasty and satisfying.

It was difficult to choose between the Almond Cake with fruit compote and whipped cream, and the Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp with ice cream. We chose the latter. The crisp was warm and tasted of real fruit.

The anchor of the Townhouse, the bar, serves [tag]great mixed drinks[/tag]. There is plenty of fresh mint for mojitos. The kama kazi?s are never too sweet, and there is an extensive wine list.

[tags]restaurant review[/tags]

Tags: Columns · Restaurant Review · vol 02 issue 45

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